22 JUNE 2 0 1 9
FOOD + DRINK
HIDDEN GEM Try Italian restaurant Trattoria Ora on Astoria Blvd.
By DANIELLE BRODY
F @DLB1022 or the past five or six years, Ramo
Besi would walk by the vacant storefront
on a corner in his neighborhood
and tell his wife, Mimi, “I’m going
to watch this. I’m going to make
something.”
The couple, who has lived in Astoria
with their family for more than two decades,
already owned Dolcino, a Northern
Italian restaurant in Manhattan. Ramo Besi
said he’s had success there and wanted to
try the concept in Astoria.
“We have always wanted to open something
close to home,” he said. “This neighborhood
is up-and-coming and has a lot of
good people.”
About two and a half years ago, they took
the leap and rented out the empty space.
Fittingly, they named the restaurant Trattoria
Ora, which roughly means "time to eat."
The restaurant needed to be completely
built up and designed from scratch. The aesthetic
is upscale, yet comfortable. Mimi Besi
said that she and her husband disagreed
over whether to have white tablecloths, but
that she’d wanted to bring back tradition to
dining. Even so, it is not meant to be a fancy
place, she said.
“I want people to feel like they can walk
in here wearing jeans,” she said. “I wanted
something that looks nice but simple, not
too crowded.”
Details include an exposed brick wall, which
Ramo Besi said is original, a dark wood bar
and chairs, and soft wood floors. The size of