64 LONGISLANDPRESS.COM • NOVEMBER 2018
JONATHAN’S RISTORANTE:
A TREASURE IN HUNTINGTON
By JEFF and VERA WURST
Jonathan’s Ristorante, a Huntington
fine dining staple since 1994, has
endured longer than most restaurants
downtown. Originally a deli,
its previous owner sold it to Roberto
Ornato, who converted it into a fine
restaurant but kept the name.
Roberto was born in Torino, the
automobile center of Italy that’s home
to Fiat, raised in Rome, and brought
to the U.S. various styles of Italian
cuisine. He worked for Cipriani for
10 years before venturing out on his
own.
At this well-run establishment, the
service is impeccable without being
intrusive. Shortly after we were
seated, the manager, Alex Vergara,
stopped by to greet us and chat about
the menu.
Tito Onofre, who has been the
executive chef for almost 21 years,
brings training from his native Peru
and the Florida Culinary Institute.
Classic, refined dishes emerge from
his small kitchen with minimal storage.
As a result, deliveries are daily,
assuring that the freshest ingredients
are used.
Jonathan’s eclectic menu emulates
what was cooked up in Ornato’s mother’s
kitchen. The menu changes seasonally
but popular classic mainstays
are always available. Choices range to
please the simpler tastes or the tastes
of more sophisticated, well-travelled
diners. Sometimes they push the
envelope with unique dishes.
Once seated we were presented
with perfect bread — crusty on the
outside and soft inside, along with
fresh-cut Parmesan cheese and
olives.
We started our dinner with piatto
di salami, served on a slate board, including
various meats: speck (cured
ham from the South Tyrol mountains
in northern Italy), prosciutto, mortadella
(a cooked meat similar to bologna),
and two types of salami. Figs,
Parmesan cheese and other seasonal
garnishes were added to enhance
flavors.
Burrata uniquely was served with
peaches, heirloom tomato, and kale.
Fritto di carciofini is marinated,
sautéed artichokes flambéed and
adorned with pesto sauce. A bed of
yellowfin tuna tartare comes over
cucumber slices partnered with avocado
salad and wasabi mayonnaise.
The fresh arugula and Parmesan
salad is painted with a citrus dressing
with lemon, lime, and orange juices.
A special appetizer we sampled was
wild-caught seared sea scallops,
served with sautéed baby artichokes
and basil pesto garnished with
watercress.
We enjoyed two homemade fresh
pastas: bucatini with a lavish Bolognese
sauce laced with parsley, and
linguini with shrimp and grape
tomatoes merged with a creative
nduja sauce.
Artistic entrees were blackened
yellowfin tuna, layered with spinach
under polenta and guacamole draped
by cilantro oil, dressed up with watercress
in an array of perfect color
and contrast. The anatra alle more
(Long Island duck breast) was a mosaic
of flavors, textures and colors
served with a delicate blackberry
sauce, farro and roasted Brussels
sprouts. Whole California blackberries
accompanied the dish and were
the perfect finish to the palate.
The bistecca alla griglia is so good
it needs no embellishment to get a full
flavor. No sauce needed but it may be
served with the black truffle butter,
peppercorn sauce or plain olive oil.
The branzino is an eloquently
prepared, butterflied fish left with
backbone, appearing with frisee,
fennel and apple salad.
Vegan dishes are available along
with other dietary desires. All items
are made to order thus accommodating
any diet restrictions.
Desserts are all homemade. We
tried the maple mascarpone cheesecake,
with a texture between Italian
and New York cheesecake.
The domestic and international
wine list is extensive, with reasonably
priced, excellent wines and
selections for those special occasions.
We chose the 2012 Camigliano
Brunello di Montalcino ($75),
which was both extraordinary and
underpriced.
The adventure was thrilling. Dine
at Jonathan’s and leave happy!
Jonathan’s Ristorante, 15 Wall St.,
Huntington. 631-549-0055. Lunch
Tuesday – Saturday 12-PM-3PM.
Dinner Tuesday- Thursday 5PM-
10PM, Friday and Saturday 5PM-
10:30PM, Sunday 4PM-9PM. Lunch
starts at $10. Prix Fixe dinner nightly
$35. Appetizers $10-$18. Pasta (half
portions available)$19-$26. Entrées
$22- $45.
Jeff is a practicing attorney. Vera
is a retired schoolteacher. Both
love Long Island food and wine and
are delighted to share their discoveries
with you. Contact them via
lipressfood@gmail.com.
BEST OF THE WURSTS
The wild-caught sea scallops at
Jonathan’s Ristorante is in the heart of downtown Huntington. Jonathans are a work of art.
The mozzarella di Buala at Jonathan’s.
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