A GourmetSlice SEPTEMBER 2014 | BOROMAG.COM | 37 It seems like each month a new pizzeria pops up in the neighborhood. While we certainly have our favorites, there are some definite factors that make for a successful opening and longstanding success. After just a few visits to L’Inizio Pizzeria in Long Island City, we can name at least a few things that we know will bring us back again and again. What’s not to love about a glowing red neon sign above the sidewalk that simply announces ‘Pizzeria’ from several blocks away? Or a saucy mural of a red-headed vixen being tugged at the skirt by a puppy while balancing a pepperoni pie? The friendly space is lovingly constructed of reclaimed wood, Italian tilework, and earthen stone imprinted with Italian culinary terms. Seating is first come first served after you order from a counter that extends nearly half the length of the building, each section stacked with deep fried arancini, terrines of eggplant napoleans, warm calzones, and a growl-inducing line up of gourmet pizzas. Gourmet squares, most notably, available by the slice. A generous square of the Pa-ta-ta pizza (blanketed with thinly sliced Yukon gold spuds and layered with salty pancetta, rosemary, sweet caramelized onions, and golden-browned fior di latte) accompanied by an icy glass of homemade sparkling raspberry lemonade came to about 7 bucks. The crust on these signature pies is about a ¼ inch thick buttery toasted focaccia. Classic New York round pies are also available, with a thinner, crispier crust—and can be topped with any combination of ingredients. Both pies are equally enticing, but of course you have to sample a margherita to assess the overall basic quality. The sauce is slightly sweet and sweetly spicy with fresh herbs, and the cheese is perfectly salty and playfully melts into the poster slice of cheese stretching from your teeth at each bite. But the real wow factor comes when you pick up your slice, and the counter attendant offers to freshly grate parmigiana cheese, or drizzle olive oil, or hand cut little pieces of basil onto your personal black pie peel embossed with the restaurant’s name. L’Inizio also offers curbside pickup through a little window by the front doorway. One lunch, while the restaurant was closed for a private party, there was still a line at the pickup window where guests ordered slices with whole prosciutto blossoms, or crispy artichokes, or crimini mushrooms with truffle oil, or the Barese—a designer pie loaded with sausage, baby kale, gaeta olives, and shaved grana padano. As the team eases into a rhythm over the next month, more salads, appetizers, entrees, and desserts will gradually roll out. But even if L’Inizio was already at its peak, we have it perched pretty high up on our pizza chart. We’re already referring to it as L’I-neat-zio. L’Inizio 47-23 Vernon Blvd Long Island City, New York 11101 (718) 361-1965 www.linizio.com
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