32 | BOROMAG.COM | SEPTEMBER 2014 on a di me STORY & IMAGES BY BRADLEY HAWKS FOOD & DRINK It is noon on a Monday afternoon, and this pristine, bright space on Jackson Avenue is practically full. The room itself is vibrant with blond wood, and a few smaller tables skirt the outside edge, bordering a long communal table that runs down the middle of the space, illuminated by giant, oversized light bulbs. Overhead floats the crackle of a record player as a Japanese chanteuse croons a melody from the 1940s, evoking a deep sense of nostalgia. So far, everyone around me is Japanese, though businessmen will clamor in and out over the next hour during remarkably quick power lunches. The waitress grabs a chalkboard and balances it on the chair across from me. The slate explains the variety of choices for today’s bento box, as well as the special sushi rolls. Though I have come because I have been told the $10 lunch special is one of the best deals around—and uniquely authentic—I have great difficulty turning down anything accompanied with yuzu mayonnaise. So I order my bento box with a generous cluster of steamed shrimp shumai, a selection of house made pickles, a small salad, miso soup, and a miniature portion of the day’s obanzai—or homemade special dish—which is pumpkin simmered in a light soy broth. And since the yuzu won’t relinquish its hold, I order a lobster tempura roll for good measure. I will have to return at dinnertime to try the homemade tofu about which regulars rave, served either warm or cold and topped with grated ginger, scallions, and a soy-dashi broth. Or perhaps I will try it fried, agedashi-style, with shishito peppers and shiitake mushrooms. I forego the sake, wine, and beer selection for an iced glass of grape-vegetable juice, which is pleasantly tart and sweet, like a berry-infused V8. A half carafe of ice water is continually refilled, as well. There is no menu for desserts, but I take the advice of my waitress on a strawberry dorayaki. What arrives is a stack of two wonderfully spongy pancakes stuffed with sweet red bean paste, halved strawberries, and a generous scoop of green tea ice cream. I ask for a spoon, but am licking my fingers before the waitress has a chance to fulfill my request—and truth be told, she was prompt on the return. The bento box would have been an exceptional meal all by itself, but I think it was merely the draw to break my Hibino bubble. With food this fresh, clean, and delicious at such an accessible price point (two sushi rolls with soup and salad are also $10), I predict this place will maintain a steady business. The menu isn’t particularly fancy or extensive, but I always prefer a place that does just a few things exceptionally well. Hibino LIC 10-70 Jackson Avenue, LIC, NY 11101 718-392-5190 www.Hibino-LIC.com Oishi
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