A New Burger in Town Story + Images by Bradley Hawks Eight ounces of ground lean angus beef is the making of the quintessential hamburger patty. Large enough to make the burger substantial— demanding more than just a half-hearted grin to allow it to enter your mouth—yet manageable enough you can enjoy each bite, from start to finish, with the sandwich pressed neatly between your fingers and lips. Blanket that warm grilled beef with a golden cloak of melted cheddar, dimpled strips of crisp bacon, and a double halo of red and white onions that add crunch and spice. Top it with some crisp leaves of lettuce, sandwich it between a gently grilled All-American bun, and toss that bad boy in a plastic basket loaded with warm fries and a pickle spear, and you have a pub classic. That seems to be what the entire menu is attempting to achieve at The Brewery, which recently opened on an arguably remote stretch of 30th Avenue near 49th Street. Though not technically a brewery that produces its own beer, the restaurant features twelve taps, eight flat screen televisions, and a jukebox within a room that could easily seat eighty to one hundred guests at a time. The menu hints at a nod to the traditional public ale houses in Great Britain, with Irish dishes like fish and chips, an oven-baked cottage pie, and even a nice take on chicken curry, with juicy pieces of poultry sautéed in a mild curry gravy with roasted peppers and onions that arrive on a mound of saffron rice, accompanied by a side of French fries. The menu is prepared by the hand of one of the neighborhood’s favorites, Declan Cass, who came on at The Brewery as a consulting chef. The former culinary mind behind the late Stove restaurant on 28th Avenue—which is now Fatty’s Café—Mr. Cass returns to the kitchen refreshed and equipped to prepare what are some of the most enjoyable comfort dishes this side of Steinway. The owner, Padraic Sheridan, was once a devout patron of Stove—and so he jumped at the chance to bring Mr. Cass on board. Beyond a sturdy menu that includes brunch Declan and lunch Cass specials, the bar features a happy hour from 2:30 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. on weekdays, during which time customers can enjoy house cocktails for just $6, beer and a shot for $5, and $1 off wines. While the drinks are cheap in this friendly new addition to the neighborhood, there’s not much that could be better spent than the $8 for that particularly delicious burger. It’s the kind of burger of which legends are made, and we know that’s a pretty hefty claim. The Brewery 49-18 30th Ave Woodside, NY 11377 NOVEMBER 2014 | BOROMAG.COM | 33
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