“What I have always loved about this place is that every type of person walks in the door,” smiles Michele Addeo, the owner of Sugar Freak. “I just love that, and that’s the spirit of New Orleans. Many types of people getting along and having fun together—old, young, gay, straight, black, white, purple, pink, it doesn’t matter. Everyone eats here together and has fun together.” The dining room around her is as colorful as the clientele—now boasting several changes since the restaurant temporarily closed its doors for a month and a half so the owner could refresh and refocus. Tabletops have been fashioned from old picture frames and windowpanes. Stained glass now partitions the booths, and a television has been conspicuously added to the main bar— albeit concealed in an old-fashioned cupboard. The two outhouse-themed water closets are like private sanctuaries for Laura Ingalls Wilder, complete with washbasins formed of oversized pails. But all of that merely describes the changes to the façade. Though Sugar Freak was met with wild success during its first three years, “The restaurant was never really everything I wanted it to be,” explains Addeo. “I wanted to bake again. I never wanted to have to deal with the business side of the restaurant. I loved the solitude and meditation of baking.” 32 | BOROMAG.COM | NOVEMBER 2014 Under the gifted direction of Cristian Fajardo as Sugar Freak’s new Executive Chef, Addeo has now found the time to focus her attentions in other arenas. Just around the corner from Sugar Freak, she is opening Pie vs Cake at 36-08 36th Street, hopefully by Christmas. “The menu is American Southern based,” laughs the baker, “like your mom would make at home.” A departure from the European-themed bakeries, the menu will boast twelve pies and twelve cakes, with options to have any slice blended into a concrete—a thick, sweet milkshake. Addeo also plans to open a second location of Sugar Freak in Boerum Hill later in the year. But despite all the exciting plans of expansion, the only foreseeable growth we can expect is in our waistline. Even without the two new outposts, the present location is rocking our world. “It’s a New Orleans-based menu, but New Yorkified and whimsical.” And the new lineup includes a build-your-own waffle section with everything from mac and cheese to red eye gravy, beer can chicken, and even a bananas foster topping. Eggs Benedict can be built with BBQ shrimp, chicken fried bacon, praline bacon, or oysters. Beignets are stacked into sunrise sliders with pimento cheese and praline bacon under a fluffy cloud of scrambled eggs. Alligator tail arrives Mac and Cheese Waffle with Chicken and Gravy Popcorn Alligator Deviled Eggs deliciously chicken-fried, deviled eggs are served with cracklins, and made-from-scratch chicken and dumplings are so good you might cry. Addeo has even procured a Sno Ball machine, and Fajardo is still ironing out the specifics on a lineup of savory hand pies. And as for beverages, they offer an unlimited brunch at an upcharge, which will soon include specialty punches. In fact, brunch has been such a success that they will start offering a Midnight Brunch this weekend, featuring brunch drink specials from midnight until 4 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays But beyond any shadow of a doubt, the greatest additions to the menu are the warm spheres of deep fried pudding. Homemade banana cream custard balled into 2 inch spheres, frozen, dipped into a batter that tastes like sweet pancakes, and fried. They arrive as a pair of teardrops that have landed in a heap of whipped cream, and they can soften even the most skeptical sweet tooth. Whether starting with etoufee, jambalaya, gumbo, muffuletta, or a homemade boudin, the fried pudding is one finale you should definitely plan in advance. 36-18 30th Avenue, Astoria, NY 11103 (718) 726-5850 www.sugarfreaknyc.com Michele Addeo FOOD Deep Fried Banana Pudding
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