A LITTLE BIT OF 14 | BOROMAG.COM | NOVEMBER 2013 FOOD French in Astoria is oddly one of the most di cult cuisines to nd, especially when it comes to table service. As a matter of fact, it could be argued that until last month, one solitary restaurant served a croque madame. Luckily the opening of Francis Café marks the second bistro in Astoria, presently open for lunch and dinner, and we took a chance to swing by. Francis Café is actually an outpost of Francis Staub—owner of Le Gamin in Williamsburg and Ft. Greene, as well as Staub cookware. So considering his famous association, we decided it would be well worth our time to see what he has cooking. ere is nothing extraordinary about the menu itself, beyond several classic French dishes. Just simple sections with a few o erings under each. Crque Monsieur et Madame, Merguez Moutarde, and classic burger. Breakfast dishes include a few varieties of omelettes, quiche, even a pain perdu. e success at Francis Café lies in the quality (and quantity) of each dish—as each is superbly executed as if to create a postcard to French cuisine. Moules Frites are extremely tender. Crepes are exquisitely folded and tucked onto the plate as a culinary gift. Dry-aged steak frites is so juice it would fall apart in a sauce. On one occasion, I made the mistake of ordering a croque monsieur accompanied by a side dish sampler of haricot verts, au gratin potatoes, and a morel risotto. When the rst of the plates arrived at the table, I gasped at the portion. But as I began to attempt to tackle even a fraction of each section of my meal, the food drew me in until suddenly there was hardly anything remaining. My will power faded, rendering me helpless. Be prepared, as the cuisine here is actually that excellent. Desserts arrive, and last seconds before the fork devours them. Co ee is as excellent as it should be in any French restaurant. When you arrive, take a moment and focus on the menu as though you were going to devour absolutely everything on it. And then simply order one entrée, followed by a dessert and a café au lait. Trust me, you will not regret it. And then return again and again and again, as if each visit were your very rst. Everything is really that good. 3501 Ditmars Blvd | Astoria, NY 11105
BM112013
To see the actual publication please follow the link above