On shelves overhead, beautiful hand-carved and painted wooden figurines of what look like fantastical insects seem to clap in approval. Called alibrijes, these brightly colored creatures are like cartoonish renderings of grasshoppers and praying mantises. They were collected on a trip to a small village in Oaxaca known as Arrazola, where most of the city crafts the statues. Next, a tostada arrives with mashed spring peas and uni (sea urchin). “I believe that peas and uni have a nice compatibility,” says Powell, “so I cooked peas with garlic, cream, chile arbol and the magical hoja santa, chilled it and put it on a tostada topped with sea urchin and a couple dots of sweet garlic aioli.” With peas presently in season, the chef also combined them with charred poblano peppers and cilantro for his latest seasonal salsa, dusted with house-made vadouvan, a French-Indian curry spice Powell finds amazing with vegetables. Of course, brilliance is rarely a solo feat. His wife, Priscilla Luna- Powell, and her family have played a pivotal role in Powell’s development as a chef. “Being a cook and taking many trips to Mexico will influence you no matter your background,” says Powell. “The sights, smells and flavors are magically irresistible.” “I will put barebones Mexican food up against any European cuisine any day,” exclaims the chef. The complexity and flavors are unrivaled and maybe only comparable to India and some parts of Asia. In Latin America, Mexico is king. Many recipes go back to the Mayans and Aztecs to name a few.” When asked about any specific impact on his own cooking, he explains, “My wife’s family taught me their abuela’s chorizo recipe, how to make tamales, micheladas and salsas—and I learned what real Mexican is. Most Americans think they like Mexican food, but it is about as different as real Chinese and your American Chinese down the block. No burritos! No nachos! No fajitas! And nobody outside of Puebla celebrates Cinco de Mayo!” (continued on page 48) JUNE 2015 | BOROMAG.COM | 47 Guacamole with Coriander & Pineapple Pickled Soft Egg Taco Queso Fundido with Tinga de Pollo & Broccoli Rabe
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