FOOD 8 | BOROMAG.COM | JUNE 2014 A second tartare arrives broken down, allowing the diner to pair his own flavors. A slender board of sashimi grade diced tuna arrives with chopped wasabi, crisped bits of tiny rice, a peppery aioli, wasabi kissed tempura flakes, and pieces of tomato and avocado. Each bite blends a different harmony, and offers a new profile. It is not unlike a wildly sophisticated Fun Dip, and I laugh as I mix ingredients. The rich and tender slices of hamachi practically fall apart under my chopsticks. A fish with a high oil content, it is nearly futile to dip it in soy sauce, which stubbornly beads up and rolls off. So it’s brilliant that this appetizer is topped with a reduction of white wine as well as bulbs of garlic and pearl onions that cut the richness of the dish, all beneath earthy maitaki mushrooms. I inhale a deep breath before the final course, making extra room for dessert. A Tofu cheesecake arrives with a kumquat compote. On the side is a quenelle of apple miso sorbet with crushed pistachios, reminiscent of a traditional preparation of mochi served in Japan. It is sweet and buttery and fantastically umami, and it is the perfect ending to a meal that has truly exceeded all expectations. For a guest who wants to try this on her own, you can order five courses for $70 or 7 courses for $120 with a 24 hour advanced preparation. And the regular menu is always available to order with no advanced notice. If you ask nicely, they will even serve up one of the chef ’s special rolls not listed on the menu, the House Special Tempura Roll. Filled with yellowtail, smoked salmon, and cream cheese, the entire roll is dipped in tempura batter, and lightly fried. Imagine a Japanese take on a bagel with lox, the cream cheese warm and melted into a rich sauce that beautifully accentuates the smoky, salty, fish. It may take a moment to get used to the warm maki, but once you do, this is certain to become a favorite. A cozy setting, impeccable hospitality and service, and a killer kitchen that astonishes every single time, JJ’s is most definitely a reason to dine in Astoria over and over again. JJ’s Asian Fusion 37-05 31st Ave., Astoria, NY Closed Mondays www.jjsfusion.com
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