14 | BOROMAG.COM | JUNE 2014 FOOD Fatty’s 2 .0 Story + Images bradley hawks When Fatty’s announced it was moving almost a year ago, Astorians— and just New Yorkers in general—were devastated, and also worried that a reopening would not in fact happen. Last month, however, Suzanne and Fernando proved everyone wrong, when they opened their new location. The new space maintains all of the chill island vibe of the former, with just a little more pinache. Stereo speakers form a wall separating the front bat from the main dining room, wjich is lined with funky pieces of art. A patio is expected to open soon, where guests can be transported to an island getaway. A simple blue box lights up above Fatty’s Cafe, a restaurant with a storefront that indicates not even a hint of the oasis waiting beyond the front doors. Inside, you are likely to find an eclectic myriad of Astorians most likely chatting casually over a mojito with Suzanne or Fernando, the couple who own and run this off-the-beaten-path gem. Contrary to the misleading name, the website describes Fatty’s as a healthy grill... a place to chill... Apparently the name is derived from a term of endearment between Suzanne and Fernando. Though a Latindriven menu, Fernando explained to us that if he sees a recipe he likes, it will probably appear on the menu, whether Latin, Asian, or any other culinary influence. If he likes it, he makes it. Because he’s built a menu around recipes he loves, you most definitely taste that in the food, and feel it in the air. When we walked in yesterday, it instantly reminded me of one of the numerous laid back island bars of the U.S. Virgin Islands, a casual yet attentive server, a laughing bartender, and a staff that seemed to know the entire clientele. It was as if we had stumbled onto the familiar beach patio of a longtime friend, and every single care in the world had blown right out the door on the cool spring breeze that was dancing through the dining room to the silky croonings of Sade overhead. A trio of empanadas (chicken, beef, & cheese) were some of the best around... crispy yet moist, with deliciously seasoned, juicy fillings. Someone at your table simply has to order the contraband chicken. Tender breasts of chicken are stuffed with pico de gallo and chedder, wrapped in crispy bacon, blanketed with cheese and a mole barbecue sauce. Hands down, the most delicious, sweet, yet savory mole I have ever enjoyed. With the fusion of barbecue sauce, it was chocolaty, tangy, and smoky. The caramelized plantains were crisp to the bite, yet beautifully tender and sweet inside. The chocolate tres leches was an absolute slice of sweetened milk heaven. My lunch date laughed when I likened it to a gourmet twist on Count Chocula cereal, but it was like a childhood memory soaked up into a cake with glistening cherry on top. Everything at Fatty’s made us smile and feel like a kid on vacation, from the food to the jovial atmosphere. Any time I can’t afford a trip to the Caribbean but am craving a relaxed vacation meal, you can certainly bet I will be walking a few blocks out of the way to stop by Fatty’s Cafe. If it were any closer to my apartment, I would absolutely be a regular. While we miss the talented staff of Stove, its former tenant, we know they have passed it on to some wonderful new owners who have made it their own, and will make you feel like it is yours also. And whatever you do, try the mojito or add on one of the drunken sticks of fruit to your beverage. Those drinks are a vacation all by themselves. 45-17 28th Ave. Astoria, NY 11103 [email protected] 718-267-7071 • www.fattysastoria.com Open weekdays at 2PM • Open weekends at 11AM
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