68 LONGISLANDPRESS.COM • FEBRUARY 2018 68 LONGISLANDPRESS.COM • SEPTEMBER 2017 68 LONGISLANDPRESS.CO M • SEPTEMBER 201-----------TUTU111
PRESS MAIN DISH
BEST OF THE WURSTS
Fine dining from the harbor to the bay
By JEFF and VERA WURST
Sandbar in Cold Spring Harbor
is the latest in the Lessing family
of restaurants featuring the
culinary creations of Executive
Chef Guy Reuge, who is noted
for rallying Mirabelle at Three
Village Inn in Stony Brook. The
restaurant is decorated with
high-eaved ceilings, a gas fireplace
and nautical décor, and a wall
separating the bar and the dining
area.
Sandbar’s extensive wine list
featuring both new and old world
selection is extensive and starts at
$50. The three of us shared four
appetizers – vivid smoked trout
with horseradish aioli served over
farro salad; tantalizing tomato
braised octopus, laden with
shaved fennel salad in a tomato
vinaigrette; heavenly tuna crudo;
and full-flavored duck tacos
(jalapeno omitted). Each was
tastefully presented. Appetizers
are priced from $8-$20.
The next course was the pasta
special – bucatini dancing in a
seafood tomato sauce seasoned
with herbs, the tender veal
osso bucco, and Long Island
duck duo – a seared breast and
confit leg, bursting out from the
accompaniment of tagine, dates
and mint. Mains are priced from
$22-$42.
Don’t skip dessert, all priced at $11
each. You wouldn’t think that the
climax to a wonderful meal would
be milk and cookies, but three of
us were able to share this heavenly
ending.
Sandbar, 55 Main St., Cold Spring
Harbor, 631-498-6188. Open daily
for lunch and dinner including
special Sunday brunch menu.
Chefs on the run
Joe Gannascoli, who played
mobster Vito Spatafore in The
Sopranos, has been surprising
guests by preparing spaghetti
carbonara with a Parmesan wheel
tableside at the Matteo’s Trattoria
& Bar in both Roslyn and
Huntington.
The LakeHouse
This gem was a sweet 65-seat
treasure on Lawrence Lake until
last year, when it moved to Maple
Avenue in Bay Shore with stunning
views of the Great South Bay.
It offers perfect settings, on the
outdoor patio in the summer or by
a warm fireplace in the winter.
We were with a group of 10 on a
recent visit. Our first view after
getting a peek at the lights on the
bay was of an impressive entry with
live music from a talented piano
player, whose selections ran through
hits from most eras. We enjoyed
the music, which wasn’t too loud to
drown out our dinner conversation.
Dinner began with a complimentary
tasting of shrimp with avocado-red
pepper aioli served over a cucumber.
We would have liked the tasting to
be available as a full order.
The grilled octopus salad was
prepared with the smoky taste of
chorizo with a chickpea puree and
clementines and a drizzle of sherry
vinegar that had been aged. We
also enjoyed the tasty large chunks
of clams, shiitake mushrooms
and applewood bacon with a
drizzle of chive oil that made up
the Little Neck clam chowder. The
organic farm (to table) green salad
had candy beets and goat cheese
gently bathed with a blood orange
vinaigrette. Also at our table was
the appetizer of fresh cavatelli
with tender braised Berkshire pork
shank ragu, porcini and ricotta;
and yellowfin tuna tartare served
over cucumber with crispy potato
chips. Appetizers run from $10-17.
The second act featured tender
venison done medium rare and
pepper crusted, accompanied by
crispy mustard spaetzle, cabbage
braised in raspberry beer, parsnip
puree and a cognac jus. Another
star was a decadent medium-rare
duck breast and crisped leg confit
with pistachio pomegranate glaze,
costarring an apricot pilaf.
Also on our table was a dish of fleshy
scallops served on cannellini bean
puree with juicy charred cherry
tomatoes, and spinach draped in a
garlic mussel broth. Next was a meltin
your-mouth porkchop with green
apple, yam, onion gratin made with
blue cheese and caramelized onion,
and a cranberry mustard, maple
bacon vinaigrette. The chicken had
a stuffing of brioche, prosciutto and
mushrooms, honey-glazed onions
and a Madeira pan gravy. The salmon
was served with baby red beets and
French lentils, a celery root purée,
and a sauce of pinot noir butter.
Entrees run from $29-$41.
For our final act, we sampled the
soufflé, pear tart and baked Alaska.
On out next visit we will be sure to
try the warm cinnamon doughnuts.
Desserts are $11.
LakeHouse, 135 Maple Ave., Bay Shore,
631-666-0995. Open for dinner Tuesday
through Sunday, Sunday brunch.
Reopening for lunch on April 1.
Jeff Wurst is a practicing attorney.
Vera is a retired schoolteacher. Both
love Long Island food and wine
and are delighted to share their
discoveries with you. Contact them
via lipressfood@gmail.com.
The LakeHouse: Where the scallops come with a waterfront view.
