15 chef's corner CHEF NATASHA POGREBINSKY shameless Winter is the time we all crave those savory, comfort Photo by Michael Rudin “Bear Kulebyaka” Salmon Kulebyaka Recipe: Makes 4 servings INGREDIENTS: 1.5 lbs fresh salmon fillet – skin off 1 small yellow onion – diced 1 cup freshly chopped dill and parsley Extra dill and parsley for garnish 2 hardboiled eggs – sliced about 1/4 inch 1 cup of seedless “English” cucumber, sliced thin, skin on 2 cups steamed white rice (or brown buckwheat) dishes. You know things like stews, pilafs, mac and cheese, and all the velvety rich braises and slow cooked chilis and gumbos that drag you in like hypnosis into a deep, comfy food coma. On a crispy day with snow outside I just can’t wait for that steeped bowl of steamy broth with noodles or dumplings or that pot-roast in heavy gravy . But recently a good friend of mine was in town from Australia and missing home he told me how he was craving pies – meat pies to be exact. Meat pie is probably the original comfort food and one that appears the world. Lamb, beef and pork are the most common ingredients, but the one that I love is salmon. Salmon Kulebyaka, may be the world’s most decadent and revered pie of all savory pies. Salmon is one of those foods that have a rich history early Russian immigrants, is now a New York staple. In Alaska, salmon is still considered a currency among the native population, and the harvest and smoking process is a sacred tradition. A dish that I love to prepare at home and at my restaurant is one that goes back to the early 1900s. It is called the “Salmon Kulebyaka,”a salmon stuffed pie. The word “kulebyaka” means “long rectangular pie.” It’s considered one of the great culinary inventions and originates from Russia. Renowned Russian writer Anton Chekhov noted the Kulebyaka’s magnificence in his writings: “The kulebyaka must make your mouth water, it must lie there before you – a shameless temptation… butter drips like tears, and the filling is fat, juicy, rich…” Traditionally this is made with shredded salmon and whitefish, buckwheat, hardboiled eggs, onions, rice and parsley all backed into a brioche loaf, chilled and then sliced. It is a complicated and very time-consuming process, but the end result is beautiful. It’s rare to find this delicacy on modern menus, but I urge you to try this simplified recipe at home, and then come try my version at Bear. Although traditionally kulebyaka is served cold, my version is served hot as a main course. Enjoy! Chef Natasha Pogrebinsky Executive Chef and Owner of Bear Restaurant 12-14 31st Avenue, Long Island City www.bearnyc.com 1 package of Phyllo dough Sheets - #7 or #10 thick pastry sheets 1 cup melted butter. 4 oz diced scallion (About 2 scallions, green and white) Salt, pepper Lemons for garnish 2 cups sour cream or yogurt INSTRUCTIONS: • Defrost Phyllo dough, follow directions on the box. • Cook the diced onion in a teaspoon of butter until lightly brown. • Slice the salmon into 1/4 inch pieces and place in a bowl. • Season with salt and pepper. • Add dill and parsley. • Add zest of 1 lemon. in various forms in many cultures throughout and tradition. The artistry of lox, brought here by • Add cooked onion. • Add diced scallion. • Mix evenly and separate into four portions. • Layer 3 phyllo sheets and brush with melted butter between each layer. -Place 1 portion of the salmon mix in the center and spread into a small rectangular shape. Top with slices of egg, rice and cucumber slices. Fold over each corner and place seam side down on a greased backing sheet. Brush with melted butter. Repeat with the remaining portions. • Bake in the oven at 400F until the dough is flaky and brown. • Remove from the oven and serve warm. Brush with more butter and garnish with sliced lemons, dill and parsley. • Optional sauce: mix 2 cups of sour crème or yogurt with 1oz water, 1oz chopped dill, salt and pepper. Temptation
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