RETURNING TO CITI FIELD
THIS WINTER
theworldsfare.nyc
Take a Lesson in ‘Taco Literacy’ on La Roosie
BY JOE DISTEFANO
As the Culinary King of Queens, I’m so
very fortunate to live in the most diverse
and delicious destination in all of New York
City. Really I’m not royalty though, I’m
an ambassador, and a hungry one at that.
Today, we visit Mexico via Roosevelt Avenue
for a tale of three Mexican street foods: two
very special taco outfits and a purveyor of
the gigantic Mexico City style sandwiches
known as tortas.
A an eager crowd waits at New York City’s only
birria cart while the 7 train rumbles overhead.
BRONX TIMES REPORTER, SEPTEMBER 2 BTR 0-26, 2019 39
I have long held that the Mexican street food
available late into the night on Roosevelt Avenue—
tacos from carts, trucks, and even bicycle borne
baskets and gigantic tortas served from windows—is
the best in New York City, and now I have a professor
who teaches “taco literacy” at St. John’s University
to back up this oft-disputed claim. His name is Dr.
Steven Alvarez and here’s what he has to say about
the Mexican food on La Roosie: “Roosevelt Avenue
has the best Mexican food in New York City. Basically,
the diversity of tacos one can find in New York
City are all on Roosevelt.”
Dr. Alvarez who teaches English at SJU and
I share a favorite taco truck, the Vendy Award
nominated Beefrr-landia—New York City’s only
specialist in Tijuana-style beef stew tacos—which
opened back in July on the northwest corner
of Roosevelt Avenue and 78th Street. As you
approach the truck, which bears a picture of a
gigantic platter of tacos de birria, or beef stew
tacos, a heady aroma of meat and spice beckons.
The signature birria taco is filled with a ruddy beef
stew scented with cumin, cinnamon, paprika, bay
leaves, cloves, and a good dose of chilies. For a real
treat get a side of consomme—a heady scarlet soup
featuring more beef—and dip your taco into it.
“The owners have roots in Jalisco, so birria is
also in their blood (so to speak). The menu is not
broad, but everything is fantastic.,” Dr. Alvarez
said. “I’m glad this truck has arrived, as it has
made up for the loss of Taqueria Sinaloense close
to 90th and Roosevelt.”
Beefrr-landia starts slinging its Tijuana style tacos
at 5 p.m. and keeps it rolling until 1 a.m. Sunday
through Thursday and even later—3 a.m.—on Friday
and Saturday. Another of my favorite late night
tacos spots is the unnamed al pastor cart that sets up
on the northwest corner of Junction and Roosevelt,
in front of PL$ Check Cashing at around 10:30
until the wee hours. It is quite simply the best al
pastor—spit roasted pork—I’ve had outside Mexico
City. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you
see the flaming inferno that crisps the outer surface
of the meat as the taquero carves ruddy morsels of
crispy achiote-stained pork onto tiny tortillas from
the gigantic rotating cone of stacked pork-shoulder
slices. Best of all is the price, four dainty tacos for $5.
The taco professor also counts it among his favorites.
Not far from the somewhat elusive al pastor
cart find Tortas Neza a specialist in gigantic Mexico
City style sandwiches run by one Galdino “Tortas”
Neza out of the front window of Juan Bar (96-15
Roosevelt Ave.) Each of the maestro’s sandwiches
is named for a Mexican football club and makes
for a hearty meal. The Chivas combines a chorizo
omelet, a fistful of quesillo cheese, lettuce, and mayo
for what I think of as Mexico City’s answer to New
York City’s beloved bacon egg and cheese on a roll.
The most over-the-top torta though is the Pumas,
named for the owner’s favorite team. It’s as big as my
head and features 11 ingredients. In addition to the
aforementioned chorizo omelet its layers include
deep-fried sausages, a fried chicken cutlet, ham,
head cheese, avocado, and pickled jalapeños. You
might want to bring your own soccer team if you
plan to take on the Pumas. In case you’re wondering
Tortas Neza is also among Dr. Alvarez’s favorite
Mexican street food stands in Queens.
So there you have it. The next time someone
says there’s no good Mexican food in New York
City, take them to La Roosie and give them a
lesson in taco literacy.
Beefrr-landia’s signature taco is stained red
from a dip in beefy chili-spiked broth.Take a
Lesson in ‘Taco Literacy’ on La Roosie
The Torta Chivas eats
like a Mexico City style
breakfast sandwich.
Take a Lesson in ‘Taco
Literacy’ on La Roosie
Northwest corner of Roosevelt
Avenue & 78 Street, Jackson Heights
(347) 283-2162
96-15 Roosevelt Ave., Corona
(347) 666-1517
Northwest corner of Junction Boulevard
and Roosevelt Avenue