DECEMBER 2013 | BOROMAG.COM | 7 crawl out. Nothing does—of course—and so we pass out the warm pretzel rolls which are served with a tiny pitcher of mustard, as well as a warm pat of butter. From the raw bar, we order the ‘Dog Bowl’, which essentially could have served as our meal. e lobster tails were exquisitely smoky and sweet after being grilled, then slathered in an herbed aioli. Pickled smelt lay across potato wa es with crème fraiche, smothered in salty golden orbs of trout roe. Hackleback caviar is pressed into sheets and served on brioche like tea sandwiches. A decadent lobster roll arrives next, dripping in tarragon aioli. Escargot is lined up and roasted alongside bone marrow. Potato gnocchi are stu ed with foie gras medallions, and poutine is served with straws of crispy golden French fries loaded with melted cheese curds, all drizzled in brown gravy. e Grassfed Cowboy is as exquisite as any steak I have ever enjoyed, the juices bursting in my mouth as I bite. And I have never, ever had potatoes like these before—almost two parts butter and cheddar to a single portion of spud—stringing from the spoon playfully as I draw my fork. e meal is outstanding in every possible way. And there are so many things that still I want to try. e beef butter sounds divine. e Caesar salad looks remarkable, covered in a snowfall of pecorino shavings. At just $15, the bone-in burger looks delicious. And the Coquilles St. Féréol is supposed to be like a seafood shepherd’s pie, with scallops buried beneath an afghan of mashed potatoes which have been carefully piped onto the plate. We pay the bill without even considering dessert. Our waitress, who has been incredible, smiles as she hands me the leftovers in a brown bag. “I snuck in a piece of cheese cake,” she winks, which I had been eye-ing on the dessert cart, swimming in a vanilla bean sauce. I suck my stomach in, to no avail, and step out into the cold street and turn the corner. Behind me is just a closed, rusty garage door, and I am already wandering if that meal truly just happened. M. WELLS STEAKHOUSE 43-15 Crescent St | LIC, NY 11101 (718) 786-9060 | magasinwells.com
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