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improved, perhaps a bit more sauce could
be added next time, but I was more than
able to dress it up to my heart’s content
with the chipotle, chile and hot sauces provided
on every table.
I’d like to draw your attention to an ingredient
back at the top of that last paragraph,
“papalo,” a basil-like herb grown
only in Mexico that Polo specifically hunted
down for this restaurant. Tried though I did,
I couldn’t get him to give up his supplier
here in Queens, but it was a delightful leaf
that kept popping up in his dishes and
drinks (stay tuned till the end of this piece
— Jennifer Szudlowski found a way to use it
in a drink that surprised even him). If you
want the real, down-home Mexican experience,
you’d be hard-pressed to find a more
authentic one on Broadway this summer.
The tacos were up next, both fish and
beef. The pescado taco, with pineapple,
cabbage, cucumber, red onion, citrus
and chipotle mayo, hit my sinuses with an
excellent blast of spiciness smoothed out
by the mayo. But the birria taco is what
really sold the place for me. This is a slow
worker, but give this big juicy beef stew
taco from Michoacan, Mexico, a chance —
it was easily my favorite of the night, and
perfect for a dinner, lunch, or quick bite
to go.
A quesadilla like I had never seen before
landed in front of me next, the Huitlacoche.
They didn’t tell me at first what protein was
in it, and after guessing chicken, pork and
even turkey, they finally revealed the truth:
this hardy, thick quesadilla was a mushroom.
The Huitlacoche mushroom, affectionately
known as the “Mexican truffle,” is an enormous
fungus found only in Mexico and has
been served as a delicacy since the time of
the Aztecs. It was remarkably good. I’m no
stranger to mushrooms at all (give me a good
portobello burger any day), but this truly took
me by surprise. Add in the delicious, gooey
cheese, and you’ve got a quesadilla pull-apart
shot just waiting to be Instagrammed.
Before I round out the culinary side, let me
dive into the drink menu for a moment — and
what a cocktail tour de force it is. Everything
here, food and drink alike, is designed to
be paired together. I certainly love a good
standalone cocktail, but I always appreciate
FOOD + DRINK