The White Tower of Astoria For 40 years, the intersection of 23rd Avenue and 31st Street was one of the most recognizable street corners in Astoria. The remarkable white storefront with Aegean blue Greek lettering denoted the location of one of Astoria’s most popular old-world social spots and one of the neighborhood’s oldest, most respected bakeries. Lefkos Pyrgos—which means White Tower of Thessaloniki, the capital of Macedonia in Northern Greece—served homemade pastries, Greek frappes and coffees, and arguably the city’s most delicious galaktoboureko for more than four decades. When owner Julie Pantazis was forced to close the bakery’s doors at the end of 2015 to make way for a new Time Warner Cable Center, many thought a substantial pillar of Astoria’s Greek history had died. “We opened in 1970,” explains Pantazis. Initially, she has a cashier translate Greek to me. Then she pauses to ask if I would like to try something. I express my gratitude for anything she would like to share, and soon a waitress returns with a cappuccino and a freshly sliced piece of galaktoboureko. I momentarily pause to savor the napoleon of crisp Greek phyllo, vanilla custard and sweet honey, all brightened with miniature shavings of orange zest. Instantly, I understand how the neighborhood men could sit for hours at the sidewalk tables indulging in such treats, sipping cup after cup of coffee. Pantazis smiles with the warmth of a longtime friend. Her eyes are kind and beautiful—almost twinkling—and I sense a whole soul full of stories. So I lean in to listen to my new friend. She smiles at the cashier as if to say she is okay, then continues speaking to me slowly in English. “My husband was a professional soccer player, and he was moved to New York—and so we came here in 1969. We were working very hard while he played soccer. Somebody sold their store across the street from us, and the building owner was a good friend of my husband, and so we created this place. I worked seven days a week all day long because I wanted it to be just like this. After four years, I opened another restaurant, and five years later I opened another store in Bayside. Some years later, we opened a pasta restaurant. In 2001, I got very sick, and the doctor said I couldn’t work anymore. So, we sold everything except Lefkos Pyrgos.” “When our lease was up,” she continues, “I said I do not want to pack everything up and start somewhere else—I am too old.” She sighs, and then smiles. “After we closed, I stayed in my home for three months, and then I decided to open this space. People had been asking me to. The same customers come here, and it is very good.” Cakes, cookies and pastries are all made downstairs in the basement bakery. Many of the bakers and staff members have been with Pantazis for years. Besides loyal local regulars, her patrons include Greek celebrities, athletes and politicians who stop by when visiting New York. The new bakery feels very similar to the former space, and reflects the same character and tradition. While I had always loved the old bakery for the authentic cookies and cakes, sitting with Pantazis is a treat I will cherish for a very long time. “Anytime you want, please come by and say hi,” she says. I most definitely will. 33-02 Ditmars Blvd., Astoria, NY 11105 718-932-4423 MARCH 2016 I BOROMAG.COM I 46
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