To balance out the dining experience, Miyawaki has also created an impressive selection of cold and hot tapas. A “forest salad” arrives as a haystack of kale, peppery mizuna, crisp wheels of lotus root and a quartet of mushrooms—enoki, shitake, eryngii and shimeji—all sprinkled with quinoa and tossed in sesame dressing. Four bucks will buy you a cone filled with Kurobuta popcorn dogs, like miniature tempura corndog buttons made with black pork sausage. Also four dollars, the pork bun is practically a steal. “I like the versions at Momofuku and Ippudo,” Miyawaki says, “but everywhere else is like second best.” His recipe focuses on capturing the smokiness of the chashu with a hot sear, then serving it on a light-as-air steamed bun layered with a curly leaf of kale and a dollop of house “egg tartar sauce” made with egg, aioli and whole-grain mustard. His most popular bowl of ramen features the signature broth, which is exponentially more translucent than tonkatsu—but only in appearance. The layered flavors deliciously glide down, leaving my stomach satisfied and content—but never overwhelmed. Miyawaki has even mastered a vegetarian ramen, which tastes almost like a delicious Japanese minestrone. Avoiding the use of vegetables high in starch to achieve a thicker consistency, the broth uses a hint of soymilk to lend some creaminess. Devout fans of the almost sacred art form of ramen should approach this restaurant with an open mind. Miyawaki’s years of experience, the courage of his journey, and the devotion of his path have truly allowed him to develop a uniquely exceptional taste that is flavorful and clean. Be sure to order a few small plates to fully witness the expertise of his ability. After all, Shuya Cafe is the sum of one man’s entire lifetime of learning. 42-13 Broadway, Astoria 718-777-0430 www.facebook.com/ shuyacafederamen/ Popcorn Dogs Forest Salad 36 I BOROMAG.COM I JANUARY 2016 FOOD + DRINK
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