The Berkshires
BY ROBERTA GRAFF
The Berkshires are a casual,
cool mix of New England
charm and city sophistication.
Tanglewood, summer home
of the Boston Symphony, is its
biggest draw, filling the country
roads and lovely restaurants of
the area to capacity. But soon
after the musicians move back to
Boston the area takes on a new
calm, a more relaxed demeanor.
The snowbirds have left for their
Florida homes and the city folk
have once again retreated to their
world of glass and steel. This is
when I most love The Berkshires,
just before the invasion of leaf
peepers and skiers. It’s during this
quiet time this little bit of paradise
is all mine.
Lucky for us we found a
short-term rental apartment near
Pittsfield, and because of the lack of
traffic, were able to scoot from town
to town, revisit some favorites and
find parking, a precious commodity
during high season.
Museums abound in The
Berkshires, but my favorite
has always been the Clark Art
Institute in idyllic Williamstown.
Although exhibitions of the works
of famed American artist, Helen
Frankenthaler, are currently on,
with lectures and concerts to
accompany her work, we chose to
spend most of our time wandering
the galleries which comprise the
Institute’s renowned holdings,
including French Impressionist, Old
Master, and American paintings.
We spent so much time with Mary
Cassatt, Fragonard and John Singer
Sargent we arrived at our next
stop—the fantastic world of MASS
MoCA—just as it was closing.
MASS MoCA is a complex of
beautifully-restored 19th-Century
mill buildings: a museum, center
for the performing arts, dance
studios, artist studios and various
other formats, which bring art to
life. It’ll be my first stop on my next
visit to The Berkshires. However,
we were indeed fortunate to snare
a table at Gramercy Bistro, a fine
dining restaurant, which brings art
to the table.
Chef Alexander Smith wears the
toque at this airy, light, friendly
place with high ceilings, tasteful
paintings, white-clothed tables
and soft grey napkins. Delicious
sour dough bread and spicy marinated
vegetables accompany a fine
selection of wines and cocktails.
Appetizers, like spicy Thai mussels
and potted smoked salmon were
exceptional as was a traditional
Caesar with white anchovies. As
a lover of crab cakes, I found the
serving at Gramercy Bistro exceptional.
2017
We loved the sesame tuna
and the coq au vin. Veal schnitzel
October ¢COURIER TOWERS SHORE NORTH 50 (413-298-5545) was a treat and the sweet breads
were a delicious step back into a
world of 1960’s French restaurants.
Too full for more than a taste of the
crème brûlée, we vowed to return
for the vanilla-ricotta fritters, along
with the art, in the near future.
Gramercy Bistro is located at
87 Marshall St., North Adams
(413-663-5300)
The Barrington Stage Company
is the fastest growing arts venue in
Berkshire County, a not-for-profit
professional theater company,
which has a reputation for producing
top entertainment. The Wall
Street Journal gave rave reviews
for its production of “Company.”
We were lucky to get seats to this
Sondheim masterpiece… And
masterpiece it was. Young Aaron
Tveit could not be better, making
the rounds of dinner parties and
dates, as he tries to understand
the pros and cons of marriage. The
entire cast was marvelous as well.
Another destination to make sure
and visit again.
Barrington Stage Mainstage is
located at 30 Union Street, Pittsfield
(413-236-8888)
No visitor to The Berkshires
would be complete without a visit
to the Red Lion Inn. Since 1773,
wayfarers have stopped at a small
tavern on this corner. They are
doing the same today, though the
food is grander and the accommodations
grander still.
Visitors are welcomed with
a warmth and enthusiasm you
simply don’t find anymore. The
menu offers incredibly good clam
chowder and sparkling salads.
Fish dishes are flavorful and every
sandwich is an absolute winner.
There was a wonderful wine list
and their Bloody Mary couldn’t be
beat. Service is excellent and there
is a strong sense of place. You just
know this is The Red Lion Inn.
Hopefully it will be here for another
hundred years or so.
The Red Lion Inn is located
at 30 Main St., Stockbridge