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an earthy but light reprise as a second course. A salad of bitter green frisée dressed with smoked croutons and anchovy vinaigrette is astonishingly vibrant. But the real star of the show is the homemade pasta, which is prepared daily by hand downstairs. Toothsome rigatoni arrives blanketed in a bolognese of lamb, which is lightened with a fennel gremolata, then dusted with a whisper of pecorino shavings that melt into the medley like snowflakes on an open palm. Yes, the pasta is precisely that transcendent. Cider and wine accentuate the selection of coffees and teas, so begin with a glass of spirits and finish your meal with a delicate macchiato. Hours of operation are Monday through Thursday from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Table service and the dinner menu are available from 5:30 to 10 p.m., seven days a week. 36-02 Ditmars Blvd., Astoria, NY 11105 347-987-3994 44 I BOROMAG.COM I NOVEMBER 2015 FOOD & DRINK


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