SEPTEMBER 2013 | BOROMAG.COM | 29 to tapas, and could quite easily serve as a rewarding meal all on their own. Cheddar and garlic grits are deep-fried in sticks that arrive at the table stacked like a Lincoln Log cabin. The deviled eggs are heavenly, with the egg tops removed, the hard-boiled whites piped full of whipped egg yolk, presented like Faberge ornaments standing on end. Bacon-jeweled smashed potatoes are wrapped in wontons and served as spring rolls blanketed with melted cheddar cheese. Each small bite is addictive, and worthy alone of a visit. “Low and slow is our motto,” explains the chef (referring to temperature and cooking duration), as he presents the first of the barbecue plates. The menu boasts ribbons of carved brisket, pulled pork shoulder, and Kansas City style racks of ribs. A Cajun-buttered grilled salmon with steamed spinach is one of the restaurant’s tastier non-BBQ offerings. And the price point falls well beneath those of its competitors in the city. Side dishes include southern favorites like collard greens that sing of bacon and vinegar, a classic rendition of macaroni and cheese, moist buttery squares of corn bread, and crunchy fresh green beans. “We aren’t trying to imitate your mother’s cooking,” laughs Chef Mollol, who knows the neighborhood is rich with its own home style recipes. “But we have tried to showcase technique and flavors the will appeal to everyone.” CityRib 89-04 Parsons Blvd, Jamaica 11432 (718) 878-3599 Daily only dinner only from 4PM Weekends brunch from 11AM
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