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(continued from page 47) Crocker realized it isn’t about sourcing great products from the South. “It’s about sourcing great flour from a mill that’s here in New York—using local jams and jellies. It kind of became a founding principal.” The result is a wonderfully accessible, universally appealing menu marked with the skill and experience of a well-seasoned team. Biscuit dough is blended with iced butter chips and duck fat, which puffs into delectable pastry clouds, and can be topped with creamy gravies, blackened catfish, breakfast meats or fried chicken. A “hot biscuit” arrives slathered in Maytag blue cheese, the fried chicken glistening in a fiery red Cayenne sauce, served with a bright slaw laced with thin wedges of granny smith apples. Brined in black tea, lemon and thyme, two pieces of fried chicken are served with a fluffy biscuit and a pickle for just $11. A skin-on crispy bird is rubbed with sumac and thyme, served atop Carolina gold rice, accompanied by ovencaramelized 48 | BOROMAG.COM | AUGUST 2015 FOOD & DRINK cloves of garlic and char-kissed lemon halves. The beverage program is also lovingly crafted—best described as classically driven, with more modern twists. An Old Fashioned uses house-infused peanut bourbon, while mint juleps are served over crushed ice in a classic tin mug. Whiskey barrels borrowed from Van Buren distillery are used to age a Negroni and Manhattan for three months, with whiskey and bourbon flights soon to come. Sweat tea and a light homemade lemonade are perfect pairings, as well. For dessert, save room for one of the most wonderful treats around—moon pies available with exquisitely moist vanilla-lemon verbena cake stuffed with lemon curd and strawberry fluff, all dipped in white chocolate, or an Elvis rendition which is stuffed with bananas foster and coconut peanut butter encased in a dark chocolate shell. From start to finish, Burnside Biscuits has been born from a talented team that brings their life into their work. Come without expectation, ready to try new takes on old favorites. Few places are preparing food and drinks with this much skill and love. While this flatiron corner of 30th Avenue may have been the old hangout for the great characters of Astoria, this new incarnation is proving its worth as a new neighborhood cornerstone. 32-07 30th Ave. Astoria, NY 11102 917-832-7822 www.burnsidebiscuit.com  Fluffy Biscuits Skillet Cornbread with Maple Butter Barrel-Aged Old Fashioned


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