Story & Images By BRADLEY HAWKS It took awhile to get the ball rolling on one of Astoria’s newest food shops. “We were doing markets for four years,” reflects Kerri Brewer, founder of Mighty Balls. “We started just doing popups on the weekends.” After serving gourmet meatballs at nearly every market imaginable, she finally settled on Astoria for an official brick and mortar. “The food scene in Astoria is really interesting,” Brewer explains. “There are so many really exciting concepts that I think it’s a really good launching pad. Every culture has some kind of meatball, and so that was really our launching point … and then the idea of just having fun with the sauces, which is what I think we’re best known for.” Canned versions of those sauces are available for sale in the restaurant, ranging from African onion to tempting tomato, cranberry horseradish, and even jalapeno jelly. “The idea was to take the really familiar format of a meatball,” continues the meatball maestro, “and use it as a launching point for some really delicious sauces.” Balls are available solo on a slider or as a trio on a hero, or they can be served without bread. Customers choose between beef, pork, turkey, veggie balls, or vegan black bean and plaintain balls (gluten free). The menu suggests a few favorite combinations, like Great Big Balls of Fire (pork balls with jalapeno jelly and feta), Giving Thanks (turkey balls with cranberry horseradish and goat cheese) and a Sexy African (veggie balls with African onion and Parmesan). A lovingly edited selection of side dishes ranges from a pimento mac and cheese to creamy grits, and even a pickled egg. “We don’t ask for any commitment,” Brewer says. “You can mix and match any ball with any sauce and cheese.” She developed all of the recipes herself. “The pickled egg makes a really great bar food, and goes really good when you’re drunk, with the electrolytes and protein.” Many of the recipes have roots in Hill Country, Texas, where she was raised. Patrons may not recognize the space as the former home of Site, the popular lifestyle store that moved to Broadway and became Lockwood. Now, the walls are covered with stunning food photographs mounted on reclaimed barn wood, all taken by Brewer herself. “I was lucky enough to work at Gourmet Magazine for two years and have clients like the Food Network and Cooking Channel.” She also made all the furniture in the restaurant, as well. Mighty Balls looks like it has all the winning combinations. Open from lunch until late night, delivery and catering will also be available soon. But I’d recommend swinging by and savoring a gourmet creation in the beautifully crafted space. You just might actually have a ball—or three! 35-11 34th Ave., Astoria 718-326-1999 www.mightyballs.com 36 | BOROMAG.COM | AUGUST 2015 FOOD & DRINK
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