That foundation sets the tone for entire production. An exceptional dough is gently hand-stretched like a dopey dwarf cap that falls loosely down the pizzaiolo's forearms as it twirls. A shallow layer of choice toppings is meticulously applied (Menna places mozzarella crumbles as if setting jewels in a crown). He then gently slides the pie into the flickering dome opposite the embers in indirect heat, and the flames and pie have a stare-down. The pie rises slowly as if posturing, then gently blisters in the heat, as charred bubbles of condensed flavor arise on the outer crust. And then just before the pie succumbs completely to the flames, Menna retrieves it at its most vulnerable stage, carefully checking its underside with a long wooden peel before sliding it onto a metal disc to serve steaming to the table. One specialty pie is layered with thin bricks of brie and sliced mushroom caps, then drizzled with truffle oil and crisscrossed with ribbons of prosciutto. A crab pizza is layered with hearty lumps of blue crab and then zigzagged with a lemon aioli. On the San Gennaro, the drizzle of a playfully spicy picante honey makes the pie particularly special. It's like what the street festival in Little Italy might taste like in a dream. “We have weekly specials (including several gluten free options)—I probably have around 40 different pies in my head right now,” smiles Menna—all of which will be browned to bubbling bronze beauty in a Stefano Ferrara wood-fired oven born from the volcanic ash of Mt. Vesuvius, an anniversary gift from Menna’s wife. Pizzas range from $9 to $16 per 12-inch personal pie. Daily specials also include a few pastas, salads, panini and crostini. (continued on page 54) JULY 2015 | BOROMAG.COM | 53
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