(continued from page 47) Since I can't seem to stop interjecting about how delicious the bottarga was, Giuseppe suggests that I will really enjoy the herbs and natural salts of his next selection. This pasta is made from the flour of crushed chickpeas, a specialty of a Tuscan village that showcases chickpeas in nearly all of its dishes. With the freshly crushed garlic, artichoke hearts, capers and olives, this Mediterranean dish almost reminds me of a creamy hummus in the form of pasta. By now I am literally laughing at the table, overtaken by glee and an utter disbelief that such simple ingredients can be interwoven in such a unique way, to create flavors and textures I've never tried, but am certain to now crave. At this point, my kind, gentle, and brilliant host inquires if I want to try one of the entrees, or continue with the pastas that are driving me into bliss. Reflecting on his explanation that each region in Italy takes one style and perfects it, rather than being mediocre at many different styles, he decides I should learn everything I can about the pasta this evening. I know for certain that I will return, so there will be ample opportunity to try the other facets of the menu. One of Ornella's most popular dishes is the imbustata, literally an "envelope" of pasta filled with roasted veal, chicken, wild mushrooms, fresh mozzarella, spinach and mascarpone cheese, all blanketed with a light, yet flavorsome tomato sauce. Though I wholeheartedly believe each diner should experiment with some of Ornella's unique pastas, the imbustata was undeniably my favorite stuffed pasta ever to cross my lips. A genius, hearty blend of robust flavors I will certainly order again. As it was now apparent that I could fit little else into my mouth, Giuseppe insisted that I try just a few more things. Though I was nearly stuffed beyond maximum capacity, how on earth could I resist an invitation to try a few more plates of what had proven to be the most delicious pasta outside of Italy itself? If you even remotely hope to enjoy gnocchi elsewhere, then I recommend avoiding Ornella's version. Ornella's fluffy pasta pillows come tossed in a decadently rich gorgonzola cream sauce that works perfectly with the feathery density of the gnocchi. After two hours of indulgent, delicious divinity, our server brought out a tasting of some of Ornella's specialty desserts. "Bradley, you must at least take a bite of each." Half willing, and halfway already succumbing to food-induced sleepiness, I could not help but smile at this beautiful ending to a magical evening. FOOD & DRINK 48 | BOROMAG.COM | MAY 2015 The imbustata is a stuffed pasta envelope Giuseppe imparted one last piece of wisdom. If anything is plated too perfectly or cut too cleanly, you should question the cook's focus on quality flavors. "If I want you to taste tomato and asparagus together, I don't make statues of them on opposite ends of the plate connected with a balsamic drizzle," he explains. He doesn't believe you have to be insulted into seeing the components and building them yourself. "I believe in amalgamating the flavors in the kitchen, and getting them to the guest as quickly as possible." Take for instance his desserts—an espresso-soaked tiramisu, moist lemon cake with actual slivers of candied lemon in the frosting, an incredibly smooth and creamy secret-recipe ricotta and mascarpone cheesecake (my favorite, and a must-try, no matter how full you think you are), and a rich, chocolate-glazed, layered mousse torte. "Look at the pieces, Bradley ... they aren't pretty, but wait until you taste them. You'll be glad we didn't waste time plating them or slicing them perfectly in advance ... it would only compromise their flavor and moisture." As I have come to believe he always is, Giuseppe was again correct. While there were no edible flowers or perfect swirls of coulis on my plate, the flavors were absolutely exquisite. If you have ever claimed to love Italian food, then you would be negligent not to add Ornella Trattoria to your bucket list of musttry restaurants. And if you spot Giuseppe, ask him to tell you about the specialty pastas himself. The history, blended with his passion and culinary expertise, delivered with his genuine sincerity is all the appetizer you could ever need. But I would start with the orangeglazed duck meatballs… 29-17 23rd Ave, Astoria, NY 11105 (718) 777-9477 www.ornellatrattoria.com
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