Soul food eatery owner fumes over gas shutoff; set to move
BY JASON COHEN
Right before Thanksgiving, a
Fordham eatery was shutdown because
of a gas leak problem in the
multi-family building it’s located in.
Millie Peartree, who owns Millie
Peartree Fish Fry & Soul Food,
2558 Grand Concourse, was forced
to close after Con Edison discovered
gas leaks in the building in November
2019.
“I knew it was a safety issue, but
in the back of my mind, I knew if they
shut the gas off that’s going to be the
end of my business,” she explained.
However, Peartree may have to
break her lease and fi nd a new location.
She’s ready to fi ght the landlord
if need be.
Even though the property owner
is required to pay for the repairs, it
could take eight to 10 months and she
simply doesn’t have the time or fi -
nances to wait that long.
“I’m confi dent they will fi x the issue,
but the timeframe is what they
don’t have any control over,” she
stressed.
Peartree, 38, was born in Harlem
and raised in the Bronx a few blocks
from her business. While she had aspirations
of being an attorney, it was
her late mom, Millie Bell, who taught
her to cook and instilled that passion
in her.
For several years Peartree worked
Millie Peartree Fish Fry and Soul Food, which was closed in November due to gas leaks in the building. Schneps Media Jason Cohen
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in the corporate world and had a
wholesale cupcake company on the
side.
She also did private catering
throughout the city and provided
food for NBA players, Google and
many big companies.
As she gained more recognition,
she slowly began thinking about
opening a restaurant. Then one day
she was going to the gym and opportunity
came knocking.
“An opportunity fell in my lap and
I was able to seize it,” she exclaimed,
when she saw the ‘For Rent’ sign.
After many years of saving for the
big day, she launched the eatery in
2017 and on her fi rst day, was mobbed
with 300 customers.
However, she didn’t realize operating
a business involved so many
details, such as payroll, paying vendors,
garbage pickup and more.
But, it was a labor of love. She was
non-stop busy and some customers
traveled as far as Staten Island to get
food.
In fact, the restaurantwas recognized
as a New York Times ‘Critics
Pick’ and earned a spot on the New
York Times ‘Hungry City’s’ ten best
restaurants list.
“People just kept coming,” she
said.
Known for her soul food and popular
items such as macaroni and
cheese, it became a place that everybody
loved to chow down at.
“Food is a communication piece
and everybody has a story,” she said.
The past month and a half has
been quite diffi cult, she explained.
She lost customers and money.
While times have been tough, she
is keeping a positive attitude and
hoping to open her new location in
the spring.
“I lost my business, which is very
sad,” Peartree said. “It’s heartbreaking.”
Millie Peartree, owner of Millie Peartree Fish
Fry and Soul Food, which was closed in November
due to gas leaks in the building.
Schneps Media Jason Cohen