24 | BOROMAG.COM | AUGUST 2013 FOOD evolution of the When Thymari Restaurant opened its doors a year and half ago, it certainly had its work cut out for it. Serving Greek cuisine in a historically Greco-centric neighborhood can be a daunting task. Serving classic Greek flavors in a modern presentation, the restaurant has quickly become one of the most unique Mediterranean spots in the neighborhood, with a diverse menu, spacious yet intimate brick walled dining room and carefully edited wine list. A recent change at the helm of the kitchen brings newcomer Chef Gianni Tobas, who comes to Astoria from Astakos, which lies on the Southwestern coast of Greece. Though several Thymari favorites remain on the menu, a few notable exceptions have become delicious additions stamped with Tobas’s expertise. While patrons will swoon over the ‘madi’—Greek lamb and beef tortellini with saffron in a warm whipped yogurt cream sauce like snow-capped dumplings, or the Arahova beef—braised and slowly cooked in lemon, garlic, and thyme, and served with a bulgur and graviera terrine, the real stars of the menu are the extensive variety of Greek pies. A boat-shaped Aegean pie arrives stuffed with yogurt, feta, spinach, leeks, dill, and spring onion. Another boat-shaped concoction brims with minced ground beef, graviera cheese, and strained yogurt. A classic spinach pie ssits in a flour shell filled with eggs, spinach, dill, and mint. But the most curious pie—the eptanisiaki—is a crustless one, almost like a Greek quiche with dill, feta, zucchini, spring onions, egg and thyme. It predates even the popular phylo-layered spanakopita. Thymari owner Konstantinos Batalamas explains: "In the olden days, it was very hard to transfer flour produced in the villages up to the mountains where the shepherds were spending most of their time during the spring and summer months. They needed the flour to make bread. So to minimize transfer of food supplies during the summer they brought corn seeds with them, which they planted early in spring along with other vegetables. That way they were able to produce faster corn flour—bobota—that needed very little kneading. It produced a yellowish dough that they used to make bread. Over the years, this easy shepherd’s bread recipe passed around the small villages in the mountains of central Greece. Now shepherd’s wives produce all sorts of things like Greek pies with spinach or other greens that are made with dough that mixes this corn flour with whole wheat flour. The dough in the pies we use in our restaurant is similar to this." Five pies presently appear on the menu, and several others rotate as specials. Thymari | 32-07 34th Ave, Long Island City (718) 204-2880 | www.thymari.com Gianni Tobas Thymari Restaurant greek pie
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