FOR BREAKING NEWS VISIT www.queenscourier.com AUGUST 20, 2015 • BUZZ • THE QUEENS COURIER 71 dining out Photo by Bradley Hawks TRUE PIZZA BY BRADLEY HAWKS “My great-grandfather came here from Tufi no with my 4-year-old grandpa,” smiles Stephen Menna, explaining the restaurant’s name. “And those corks over there are sitting in a glass bowl that came from his meat shop in Brooklyn.” At Tufi no Pizzeria Napoletana, each pie has its own personal story—whether inspired by chef-owner Stephen Menna’s grandmother’s meatballs, his favorite festival as a kid, or the last name of his neighbor who suggested adding raisins to a prosciutto pie. “And this is a photo of Sophia Loren,” Menna continues. “Every pizzeria in Naples has a photo of her on display.” Tradition and history are every bit as important as the quality of the pizza. That foundation sets the tone for entire production. An exceptional dough is gently hand-stretched like a dopey dwarf cap that falls loosely down the pizzaiolo’s forearms as it twirls. A shallow layer of choice toppings is meticulously applied (Menna places mozzarella crumbles as if setting jewels in a crown). He then gently slides the pie into the fl ickering dome opposite the embers in indirect heat, and the fl ames and pie have a stare-down. The pie rises slowly as if posturing, then gently blisters in the heat, as charred bubbles of condensed fl avor arise on the outer crust. And then just before the pie succumbs completely to the fl ames, Menna retrieves it at its most vulnerable stage, carefully checking its underside with a long wooden peel before sliding it onto a metal disc to serve steaming to the table. One specialty pie is layered with thin bricks of brie and sliced mushroom caps, then drizzled with truffl e oil and crisscrossed with ribbons of prosciutto. A crab pizza is layered with hearty lumps of blue crab and then zigzagged with a lemon aioli. On the San Gennaro, the drizzle of a playfully spicy picante honey makes the pie particularly special. It’s like what the street festival in Little Italy might taste like in a dream. “We have weekly specials (including several gluten free options)—I probably have around 40 different pies in my TUFINO PIZZERIA 36-08 Ditmars Blvd, Astoria, NY 11105 718-278-4800 www.tufi nopizzeria.com head right now,” smiles Menna—all of which will be browned to bubbling bronze beauty in a Stefano Ferrara wood-fi red oven born from the volcanic ash of Mt. Vesuvius, an anniversary gift from Menna’s wife. Pizzas range from $9 to $16 per 12-inch personal pie. Daily specials also include a few pastas, salads, panini and crostini. Shaved pear is fi nished with sprigs of fresh tarragon. A fi stful of ricotta is brightened with lemon zest and layered with shaved stalks of asparagus. Giant triangles of watermelon are drizzled with rich balsamic. Tender orbs of meatballs are slathered in a tangy, homemade sauce and baked with cheese. Storefront window art identifi es the pizzeria as a “frigittoria,” which means they are also crisping up some fried treats—or “dolci fritti”—including jumbo arancini, prosciutto croquettes, and deep-fried calzones. Guests can even indulge in a cappellini cake—angel hair tossed with a blend of cheeses, rolled in bread crumbs, fried, and served with a moat of vodka sauce. You even enjoy a hot, crisped version of ravioli. Menna, who makes his own dough each morning, has every intention of making pizza as long as he can. “Detail is everything... and staying true to what I believe in,” which is something he’s been doing his whole life. “My dad and I have been making pizzas together since I was born.” He pulls out his phone and shows me a video of his newborn son enjoying a meal. He shares the same name as the Stephens before him. Although it may be a while before he tries his fi rst pie, he has one of the fi nest pizzas in the whole city awaiting him when he is ready. View Over 200 Reviews at queenscourier.com White Star Limousine was founded in 1952 and has been family owned and operated for over three generations. Ask us about the specials we o er for you next special event WWHITESTAR LIMOUSINES 20 Jericho Turnpike, New Hyde Park, NY 516.233.2911 www.whitestarlimousine.com The musical comedy cure for everyone’s mid-life crisis! “The Best Birthday You’ve Ever Had!” Huffington Post THRU AUG 30 “UPBEAT & HILARIOUS!” Applause, Applause “90 minutes of out-and-out laughing!” The Journal “VERY FUNNY!” CurtainUp “A hilarious distraction from the summer doldrums. CLEAN DIRTY FUN!” Theaterpizzazz “Perfect for those about to turn 50, those who already have and those who love them! You Have Menopause The Musical... NOW LOOK FOR HAPPY 50ISH!” Times Square Chronicles The Beckett Theatre - Theatre Row 410 W. 42nd St. NYC Telecharge.com - 212-239-6200 - Happy50ishMusical.com
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