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QC07142016

FOR BREAKING NEWS VISIT www.qns.com JULY 14, 2016 • BUZZ • THE QUEENS COURIER 55 dining out Images from Warique’s Facebook page The Food Temple BY BRADLEY HAWKS In Quechua, the common ancestral language of the Andes Mountains, the word Warique (pronounced wah- REE-kay) means “food temple.” While the lofty moniker carries with it some undeniably high expectations, that is exactly what the Peruvian restaurant of the same name is aspiring to bring to Astoria at its newest incarnation at the corner of 30th Avenue and 41st Street. The location has seen the swift rise and fall of several businesses over the course of the past few years, such as an overpriced French bistro, the ill-fated club known as Mix, the burger pop-up known as Zuzie’s, the panini chain called La Bottega, and most recently Stix, the Mediterranean skewer shop that transplanted from Manhattan. Warique is yet another Manhattan transfer, with roots on the Upper West Side, where it served celebrated Peruvian cuisine for nearly half a decade. With the rising cost of rent, however, the owners saw it fi t to move to Astoria for a breath of fresh air. Though the corner spot certainly poses a challenge resting just a block off the beaten path of the foot traffi c of Steinway Street, history has proven that success on that block is certainly possible, if the juggernaut that is Queens Comfort is any indication. Will the worshipping place of seafood and ceviche be able to draw the crowds required to sustain the same success Warique enjoyed on Amsterdam Avenue? We certainly hope so. Warique is a place where everyone should feel welcome, from any ethnicity, background, or walk of life. Although you may fi nd several familiar dishes on the impressive menu that blend homestyle recipes South America, if you’re game for trying something new, the waitstaff will lovingly offer suggestions for some of the house favorites. I wholeheartedly recommend starting off with a pisco sour, a traditional Peruvian cocktail mixed with brandy and egg whites. A bowl of the aguadito de pollo is a soup I will order every single time I need to warm my soul, a golden chicken broth with fresh vegetables and tender grains of white rice and juicy pulled pieces of chicken brightened with fresh cilantro. The eponymous salad is a defi nite must-try, blending quinoa, corn, cranberries, cucumbers and plump cubes of avocado. It’s a perfect palate cleanser between courses, and certainly enough salad to share with two or three people ... or a light entree suitable for one.  THE FOOD TEMPLE 40-17 30th Ave.Astoria, NY 11103 718-726-5555 www.wariquenyc.com Perhaps it’s a little Midwest engrained in me for life, but something about cheese and potatoes really satisfi es my comfort cravings. The papa a la huancaina was actually one of my favorite dishes of the entire meal, and an appetizer I will undoubtedly order again and again. Tender slices of boiled potatoes are blanketed with a creamy Peruvian cheese sauce of yellow peppers, garlic, melted queso blanco and evaporated milk, all garnished with sliced, hardboiled egg. Another knockout dish was the Jalea, a heaping mound of delicately breaded and lightly fried seafood crowned with a vibrant salsa criolla. The presentation will undoubtedly put any typical seafood platter to shame. As we cleared the table to make room for the signature rotisserie chicken, a colorful assortment of side dishes made their way to the table. Tostones were green plantains fried to an expert balance of crispy coating and tender, sweet insides. The maduros, sweet plantains, reminded me of a Latin version of caramelized bananas. The tart and sweet plantains were soft and warm, with an outer coating that was so wonderfully crisped it almost resembled a brulée. Next, the rotisserie chicken was presented. Slathered with a basting of secret seasonings, the marinated chicken is then roasted to order. Whispers of paprika, garlic and cumin, along with the other secret components, result in a deliciously crispy skin exploding with fl avor. Ceviche is offered in a variety of presentations, and there is even a Peruvian-style pasta served with pesto. Kids and adults alike will enjoy a side of salchipapas (hot dogs and French fries). And no meal would be complete without a traditional slice of fl an or tres leches. The best deal is arguably the lunch special available weekdays from 12:30 to 4 p.m., which offers a choice of one of 12 classic entrees with an appetizer or salad. Or $7.95 will get you a quarter rotisserie chicken with French fries or salad and rice and beans. Now, that sounds like a pretty decent reason to offer up some praise. 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QC07142016
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