NOVEMBER 2017 • LONGISLANDPRESS.COM 41
By JEFF and VERA WURST
If you can’t get away to one of the
Greek isles for a casual seaside
lunch or supper, the next best
thing – and a heck of a lot closer
– is Elias’ Corner in Astoria. This
chalkboard-menu, roll-up-yoursleeves
spot extends its summertime
and-the-living-is-easy vibe
well into the fall with partially
tented, space-heated outdoor dining.
Inside, space is at a premium
and the décor is dockside but, hey,
all that’s part of the charm. You go
for the fish.
Front of the house is a seafood
market. Enter and pass the grilling
station where you can watch other
diners’ meals in process. Our
group shared appetizers of whole
partially sliced grilled calamari
and grilled octopus, served over
beds of arugula, grilled scallops,
fried cheese and taramasalata. Traditional
Greek salad of tomatoes,
cucumbers, peppers and onions
accompanied. Branzini (lavraki in
Greek) and red snapper are cooked
whole in the Mediterranean style,
escorted by eggplant, zucchini,
crispy cottage fries and lemon
potatoes. Waiters will remove
heads and tails if you ask. Locals –
remember we’re in Astoria – rarely
do.
The wine selection is limited. Ask
for Assyrtiko from Santorini.
Yamas!
Elias’ Corner, 2402 31st Ave, Astoria.
718.932.1510. Mon-Fri 4 p.m. to
idnight. Sat-Sun, noon to midnight.
Cash only. Eliascorner.com
* * *
FORKS IN THE ROAD
Paul Miranda, formerly of Bouley
and Danube in New York, has
moved to Matteo’s Trattoria
and Bar (300 W. Jericho Tpke) in
Huntington as executive chef. The
space has been completely renovated
and remodeled. Miranda had
been opening chef at Swallow; his
previous restaurant, True North,
has closed.
Oscar Martinez is the new executive
chef at DOMA Land + Sea
(490 Chestnut St) in Cedarhurst, a
“New American Steakhouse” operated
by restaurateur brothers Boris
and Edward Safaniev. Previously
Martinez was at The BBG in Williston
Park, following stops at The
Old Homestead, Michael Jordan’s
The Steakhouse, and Aretsky’s
Patroon, all in New York. The
space had been a pizzeria.
* * *
LISBON CAFE
Mineola used to be the center
for Portuguese cuisine on Long
Island. Now, Carle Place offers an
alternative.
Pass through the undistinguished
front and you’ll find the indoors
is quite cozy. Gratis homemade
potato chips and bread are at your
table waiting. Things start getting
Iberian with the sopa de mariscos,
the iconic tomato-based seafood
soup singing with crab meat,
shrimp and scallops. Be seduced
by polvo a lagareiro (grilled octopus
with roasted peppers, onions,
olives oil and garlic), grilled jumbo
shrimp with cognac and lemon
juice, judiciously steamed mussels
in white wine and garlic, bolinhos
de bacalhau (fish balls) and stuffed
mushrooms with seafood.
All deliver Mediterranean mojo.
Jeff said ‘sim’ to grilled branzino,
served fully deboned as requested.
Vera chose salmon stuffed
with shrimp and spinach in green
sauce. Both choices delighted.
Meat lovers can enjoy the grilled
rack of lamb and the Bife a
Portugesa, the Iberian steak-andeggs
combo. Seafoodies might
try paelha marinheira, Portugal’s
take on the neighboring Spanish
classic. Enthusiasts of the Portuguese
kitchen will want to sample
bacalhau a lagareiro, grilled cod
fish prepared with peppers in olive
oil and garlic.
From the bar we had the house
white, a dry Portuguese wine
under $25 a bottle. Good wine,
excellent value. Saúde!
Appetizers from $10.95. Entrees
from $19.95.
Lisbon Café, 490 Westbury Ave.,
Carle Place. 516.280.5015 and 399
Jericho Turnpike, Jericho). Mon-
Thurs noon to 10 p.m.; Fri-Sat
noon to 11 p.m.; Sun noon to 9 p.m.
Lisboncaferestaurant.com
Jeff is a practicing attorney. Vera is
a retired school teacher. Both love
Long Island food and wine and are
delighted to share their discoveries
with you. Contact them via lipressfood@
gmail.com.
Best of the Wursts
Across the Mediterranean, from
Greece to Portugal
Elias’ Corner has, arguably, the best grilled octopus in New York.
FOOD
