THE TACO
THE TOWN
50 OCTOBER 2 0 1 7
FOOD +DRINK
BY ESTELLE PYPER
@ESTIE_PYPER
@ESTIEPYPER
This is owner and creator Brian Martinez’s
goal. He wants every customer to
feel like they’re entering a friend’s casa
for dinner. Every detail, from the dresser
that sits next to the host stand and the
mirrors on the walls, to the friendliness of
the wait-staff, work toward this concept.
Located on 12-14 31st Ave., Fresco’s
Cantina has been open a little over three
months, but it already boasts long lines during
happy hour (Monday through Friday, 3
to 8 p.m.), despite its residential location.
The joint welcomes a steady flow of neighborhood
regulars who are delighted to
have a watering hole in their backyard — especially
one open seven days a week.
This neighborhood gem was discovered
somewhat by accident. Martinez was
searching for a second location for his
successful Bronx Latin-fusion restaurant,
Travesia. When he saw this narrow space
on 31st, he fell in love, but knew it wasn’t
quite right for Travesia.
“I knew that from the moment I saw it,”
Martinez recalled. “But I love the space.
I like the area. I liked the fact that there
weren’t any restaurants around here, so
I wanted to be that local neighborhood
restaurant. It’s a good area: up-and-coming.
I had been playing with the Fresco’s
Cantina concept in my head for almost a
year. I was like, I think it’ll work perfectly
for Fresco’s Cantina — it’s cozy, it’s very
friendly.”
And with some work, that’s exactly what it is
now. The interior is warm and brightly colored,
with recognizable home elements scattered
throughout like in an “I Spy” book — all designed
by Martinez himself. There is a garage
door that remains lifted overhead to create an
open-air feel. The atmosphere is fun, but not
tacky, which Martinez was sure to avoid.
“That’s why you don’t have skulls all over
the place,” he explained. “You don’t have
the flowers or whatever. It’s like a nice,
cozy home, like a hacienda, almost like my
Strolling down 31st Avenue in western Astoria, you’d be
pleasantly surprised to come across a charming Mexican
restaurant at the end of the block. But Fresco’s Cantina is hard
to miss. The Spanish music swelling from the interior can be
heard from the next block over, coaxing you closer. And once
you’re in front, there’s no turning back, for the warm staff and
the smell of fresh tacos will make you want to stay forever.