C R Y D E R P O I N T 10FEBRUARY DINING OUT Danny Brown lives up to its star BY STEPHEN VRATTOS My only familiarity with restaurants awarded a prestigious Michelin Star, the international hallmark of dining excellence, was through the ubiquitous foodie travelogues that dot the cable landscape. The commonality of such recipients seemed to be an off-putting pretentiousness that no degree of quality in the dishes could overcome. Thankfully, Danny Brown Wine Bar & Kitchen belies all the stereotypes. I was first struck by the humble façade. Conveniently located on Metropolitan Avenue in Forest Hills, this bistro occupies a corner at 71st Drive, although its understated entrance, unadorned with a marquis, makes it easy to miss. Inside, the atmosphere was warm, inviting and romantic, the perfect spot for a date or simply enjoying the company of friends. A lovely dark-wood bar occupied a spot across from the door and the tables were allowed breathing space on the floor. Our server was neither pretentious, nor sidled with an aloof accent. Christine was downto earth and pleasant, but no less knowledgeable about the wine menu or dishes than one would expect from a good restaurant. She had a relaxed demeanor that immediately put me at ease and looking forward to the dining experience to come. The wine menu held a vast selection of wines from around the world, as well as a “Reserve” section for the more adventurous oenophile, with an equal array of half bottle and by-the-glass selections. To begin, Danny Brown offers tasting boards of cured meats, cheeses or a sampling of both. My companion and I opted for the Tasting of 5 Cheeses. With all the expertise of a cheese monger, Christine described each selection and guided me into substituting the special cheese du jour, which sounded especially delicious, with one on the board. The servings were enough for two people to enjoy several samples of each. Included were ramekins of quince and persimmons, the fruity, sweetness of each ideally offsetting the strong, yet no less yummy, pungeance of the stronger offerings. A basket full of sliced crostini-type bread completed the experience and was replaced before quite empty and without provocation. The cheese board was a meal in itself, and I could see settling down at the bar with such for a satisfying nosh before or after taking in a movie at the nearby Cinemart 10 CRYDER POINT COURIER | FEBRUARY 2015 | WWW.QUEENSCOURIER.COM Cinema, which features both firstrun and art house films. But the menu also offers “Small Plates,” such as “Roasted Butternut Squash Soup,” “Grilled Calamari,” and “Serrano Ham Croquettes,” for starters or to compliment the meat or cheese boards for those still peckish, but not so much so for a full meal. My tablemate and I chose from the “Bigger Plates.” As we lingered over the board cheese with a delicious bottle of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, we never felt rushed, nor wanted for water, our glasses of which were always refilled before emptying. What’s more, we could actually hear one another without bending our heads forward or shouting, a rarity in New York City restaurants. I selected the “Handmade Tagliatelle.” Once again, my notions of a Michelin Star restaurant were shattered. Where was the single noodle delicately folded atop a dollop of sauce with a braised brussel sprout, toasted Parsnip and economic chunk of duck confit gingerly balance thereon, all drizzled with pumpkin seed oil? Rather, I received a hearty, and welcome, helping of the aforementioned sprouts, parsnips and duck swaddled in blankets of tagliatelle and topped with shaved cheese. Each mouthful a wonderfully unctuous mix of flavors, sweet, savory and rich. My companion ordered “Zimmerman’s Organic Chicken ‘Under a Brick.’” I know not the “Zimmerman” in question, but I wanted to genuflect before him. The chicken was so flavorful, succulent, almost buttery, in texture, I could not recall having better. Its skin was golden brown and the generous portion sat atop sautéed escarole and rosemary potatoes in a light and savory juice. For dessert we shared the “Buttermilk Vanilla Panna Cotta.” I’m not one for orange sauce, most of which tend to be overly and artificially sweet, but the Clementine reduction which accompanied this velvety smooth confection, was the citrus equivalent of baker’s chocolate, all the sharp, zesty, intense orange flavor without any sugary artifice. It was the ideal pairing with rich, creaminess of the panna cotta and incredibly tasty. But long before the dessert, I was thinking of my return to Danny Brown Wine Bar and Kitchen. Regardless of its well-deserved Michelin distinction, it’s tops in my book. Danny Brown Wine Bar and Kitchen www.dannybrownwbk.com 104-02 Metropolitan Avenue • Forest Hills • 718-261-2144 DINNER HOURS Monday: Closed, Tues–Thur: 5:30pm–9:45pm Fri & Sat: 5pm–10:45pm, Sun: 5pm–9pm first- Black Bass Quail
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