3 BRONX WEEKLY January 19, 2020 www.BXTimes.com
Soul food eatery owner fumes over gas shutoff; set to move
Millie Peartree Fish Fry and Soul Food, which was closed in November due to gas leaks in the building. Schneps Media Jason Cohen
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BY JASON COHEN
Right before Thanksgiving,
a Fordham eatery was
shutdown because of a gas
leak problem in the multifamily
building it’s located
in.
Millie Peartree, who
owns Millie Peartree Fish
Fry & Soul Food, 2558 Grand
Concourse, was forced to
close after Con Edison discovered
gas leaks in the
building in November 2019.
“I knew it was a safety
issue, but in the back of my
mind, I knew if they shut
the gas off that’s going to be
the end of my business,” she
explained.
However, Peartree may
have to break her lease and
fi nd a new location. She’s
ready to fi ght the landlord
if need be.
Even though the property
owner is required to
pay for the repairs, it could
take eight to 10 months and
she simply doesn’t have the
time or fi nances to wait that
long.
“I’m confi dent they will
fi x the issue, but the timeframe
is what they don’t
have any control over,” she
stressed.
Peartree, 38, was born
in Harlem and raised in the
Bronx a few blocks from her
business. While she had aspirations
of being an attorney,
it was her late mom,
Millie Bell, who taught her
to cook and instilled that
passion in her.
For several years Peartree
worked in the corporate
world and had a wholesale
cupcake company on the
side.
She also did private catering
throughout the city
and provided food for NBA
players, Google and many
big companies.
As she gained more recognition,
she slowly began
thinking about opening a
restaurant. Then one day
she was going to the gym
and opportunity came
knocking.
“An opportunity fell in
my lap and I was able to
seize it,” she exclaimed,
when she saw the ‘For Rent’
sign.
After many years of
saving for the big day, she
launched the eatery in 2017
and on her fi rst day, was
mobbed with 300 customers.
However, she didn’t realize
operating a business
involved so many details,
such as payroll, paying vendors,
garbage pickup and
more.
But, it was a labor of
love. She was non-stop busy
and some customers traveled
as far as Staten Island
to get food.
In fact, the restaurantwas
recognized as a New
York Times ‘Critics Pick’
and earned a spot on the
New York Times ‘Hungry
City’s’ ten best restaurants
list.
“People just kept coming,”
she said.
Known for her soul food
and popular items such as
macaroni and cheese, it became
a place that everybody
loved to chow down at.
“Food is a communication
piece and everybody
has a story,” she said.
The past month and a
half has been quite diffi -
cult, she explained. She lost
customers and money.
While times have been
tough, she is keeping a positive
attitude and hoping to
open her new location in the
spring.
“I lost my business,
which is very sad,” Peartree
said. “It’s heartbreaking.”
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