FOOD
SHANNON
MUSTIPHER
REIMAGINES
THE COCKTAIL
by CRAIG HUBERT
24
Shannon Mustipher. Photo by Noah Fecks.
Shannon Mustipher has risen fast in the world of cocktails.
Trained as an artist, with a background in hospitality,
she arrived at Glady’s, a Carribean restaurant and bar
in Crown Heights, with a unique opportunity: Make the
best rum bar in New York City. It was a challenge. Mustipher
had little experience with rum-based cocktails, but
dove into the genre with passion. Her artistic background
proved to be an asset as she was able to creatively envisage
new twists on old forms, including the often maligned
tiki category of drinks.
“Of the cocktail genres, tiki is the most receptive to
reimagining and remixing,” Mustipher writes in her 2019
book, “Tiki: Modern Tropical Cocktails.” “Rooted in the
desire to elicit surprise and delight, the best tiki springs
from a combination of personal experience, imagination,
and craft.” In addition to the book, Mustipher has been
consulting and touring. with a series of presentations,
workshops, and pop-ups.
What’s your favorite drink to make when entertaining
at home?
At home, I like to keep it simple and easy to serve,
relatable and easy to enjoy. In the winter, that means
bottled Manhattans and Negroni riffs. In the spring
and summer, it’s punches.
What’s the biggest misconception about cocktails?
That they are sweet, or too complicated to make. The
cocktails that have stood the test of time—classics seldom
have more than four ingredients—are a great place to
start when mixing at home, and once you’ve got five or
six go-tos down pat—be it a martini, old-fashioned, or
what have you—you can start to add a twist to it.
How did you first become interested in cocktails?
I started hosting dinner parties in college—this was in the
early 90s (I am dating myself) and Prohibition-era-type
cocktail bars were beginning to crop up. I was a huge fan
and as I caught the hospitality bug early on after getting
my first job as a barista, when I hosted parties I went out
of my way to give my guests a memorable experience. At
that time I didn’t know anyone in my age group who was
hosting dinner parties with cocktails.
You studied art history and worked in photography.
Has that background influenced the way you think
about drinks?
Without question. I think of spirits and flavors like colors
on a palette—how do I combine them in a pleasing way?
How do I create an experience that paints a picture,
creates, or connects to a memory, a time, or place? In my
favorite scenario—mind you, not all cocktails need to
achieve this, as simple, quaffable drinks have their time
and place—the cocktail takes you someplace.
What drew you to Brooklyn?
I came here to show my art, to pursue something creative.
I meandered into the photo industry and worked as a
styling assistant for a few years, before coming back to
hospitality. I wanted to make something with my hands,
and I still loved serving people.
Your book has gotten a huge response. Has that
changed your life in any way?
Yes! In the best possible way. Touring with the book gave
me the opportunity to meet bartenders across the country,
and connect with cocktail and tiki fans of all stripes.
Meanwhile, it’s not all glamour. I work a lot now. I love it.
I’m inspired to get more done than I did the day before, to
see how far I can take it. Writing the book demanded that
I take the phrase “all in” to a different level.