Lester's Chicken with Mac Espuma and Cheese-Powdered Kale Chips APRIL 2015 | BOROMAG.COM | 47 away and the fine china comes out. Wooden pastry crates are removed, and votives are lit next to pink and purple bouquets of wildflowers. But what exactly is behind the name change? “We like to say, ‘Mr. Nilsson is at the Sage General Store,’” says Ms. Nilsson, whose Scandinavian ancestry serves as partial explanation of the name. “Mr. Nilsson is also Pippi Longstocking’s monkey,” she laughs. “As a kid, I always thought it was funny he shared my name.” Several chef resumes sent to her were addressed to Mr. Nilsson, which also played a factor. But the real reason is her adoration of Brooklyn-born singer-songwriter Harry Nilsson, whose record, Nilsson Schmilsson, was here all-time favorite album. “The chefs are rock ‘n roll guys,” she explains. “It’s not all just delicate and beautiful. There’s some real meat and power behind what they are doing. Greg Proechel came from Blanca and Eleven Madison Park, which just got their four star review again. Michael Kollarik has cooked at the Dutch and for Momofuku.” And yes, the food is beyond special. (continued on page 48) Chicharron with Chicken Liver Mousse, Chives, and Leek Ash Cod Chicharron with American Caviar and Dill
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