Not Your Average KFC Yes, it is official. There is a new KFC on Broadway in Astoria. And by KFC, of course we mean Korean Fried Chicken. Specifically, fried chicken wings glazed in spicy Korean garlic sauce. But the fried chicken is such a miniscule part of what is being offered at the new Korean eatery, we focused on a whole selection of other dishes to share. The former 1-800-Flowers shop has now officially blossomed into Mokja. “It’s a friendly way of saying, ‘Let’s Eat’,” explains one server. Mokja is the sister to the more informal takeout restaurant in Manhattan, Korean Express. The new digs offer the opportunity for the chef to expand his menu significantly—and that is precisely what he has done. The menu features well over 50 items, covering the whole spectrum of Korean dishes. It is important to note that there is a definite element of fusion involved in the cuisine at Mokja, ranging from preparation to service. While K-Pop bounces joyously overhead, don’t expect everything to follow tradition. The banchan—or side dishes—have been judiciously edited. A tandem ramekin will arrive at the table holding a delicate stack of kimchi and golden medallions of danmuji—better known as pickled daikon radish. The atypical service, however, is best compared to bread service elsewhere—or chips and salsa. They are intended to simply whet the palate and prepare you for the meal to come. So why not try something small to get the meal started? Like a pile of fries topped with kimchi, gochujang mayo, and cilantro. Or perhaps Mokja’s intensely delicious version of steamed dumplings—or order them fried. In Korean, these little potstickers are called mandoo, and they make them at Mokja from scratch. A generous meatball of minced pork with vegetables and spices is wrapped in a thin pasta skin, pinched together into a half moon, and plopped in the steamer. Guests can order four or nine pieces. Soups and stews are also numerous, and can serve either as a starter or a full meal. One of the most robust versions is their Army Stew—a spicy stew with kimchi, pork, tofu, spam, sausage, rice cakes, and ramen noodles. Other classic dishes include versions of pajeon (scallion pancakes) and ddukboki (spicy rice cakes). And of course they serve a few tasty versions of bibimbap—the popular egg-topped Korean rice medley—which is even available in a stone bowl. The barbecue seems to be where the chef shines, and some of the most popular dishes include the kalbi (short ribs), pork bulbogi (thinly shaved marinated pork shoulder), pork belly, and baby back ribs. Fried rice reigns supreme in a variety of combos, as well. But we recommend trying the bulgogi sliders. Bulgogi literally translates to “fire meat” in Korean, and has been ranked as one of the most delicious foods in the world. Prime cuts of beef are thinly sliced and marinated in soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, pepper, and other ingredients, before being grilled to juicy perfection. If you want to stay on the healthier side, perhaps you should try some of their fantastic japchae. Glass noodles made from sweet potatoes are sautéed with a blend of vegetables and your choice of meat. Hearty mushrooms and sprouts provide contrasting textures, and a scrambled egg is playfully laid across the top. For the time being, desserts are minimal (mochi and crème brulee), and they are still awaiting a liquor license. The minimalistic décor includes several lovingly decorated chalkboard menus—one of which previews coming drinks (including soju), and another which maps out the architecture of a bibimbap burger—which will soon be on the menu in a new burger section. But as for now, the menu is already full of plenty of tasty reasons to swing by and give them a try. Service was exceptionally friendly, and the wait staff is quite knowledgeable. If you are unfamiliar with Korean food, think of a bulgogi slider as a fancy sloppy joe. But if you are already acquainted, then you should definitely give them a shot. They are serving plenty of foods you will have a hard time finding elsewhere in Western Queens. They are open for lunch and dinner, and their lunch special allows you to mix and match dishes for a tasting meal you can only enjoy weekdays between 11:30 and 3:30. 35-19 Broadway, Astoria 11106 (718) 721-0654 MARCH 2015 | BOROMAG.COM | 47
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