32 | BOROMAG.COM | MARCH 2015 FOOD & DRINK No Eggs-planation Needed Story + Images By BRADLEY HAWKS The Giannakas brothers have done it again—this time with a stunning new menu at Ovelia. Ovelia has always been a quintessential representation of the best of Astoria, in the sense it marries tradition and culture with youth and innovation. These new dishes are certainly no exception. At brunch, guests have always been able to order a frittata loaded with French fries and feta cheese. Named after their grandmother, it is lovingly called Yiayia’s Omelette. An open-faced ham chip-drip steals the show, with thinly shaved slices of ham sautéed with creamy mozzarella and mushrooms, cloaked in a bright, citrusy hollandaise. But some of the most delectable choices are the newcomers to the menu. “The whole family collaborated hard on these dishes,” explains Chris Giannakas, who runs the front of the house while his brother, Pete, heads the kitchen. “We all come from varying viewpoints, but I think you will like the end result.” Consider the new benedict of chickpea croquettes and a poached egg, all stacked atop a mound of riced saffron cauliflower. As a matter of fact, benedicts take many forms on the new menu. Spanakopita (Greek spinach phyllo pie) forms the base of the beautiful eggs Florentine, draped in that vibrant hollandaise. Or you can get your poached eggs over warm sofrito and a coffee skirt steak, if you’d rather. A classic strapatsada features spicy soutzouki sausage beside fluffy eggs that have been scrambled with tomato and feta. Or for a creative brunch sandwich, you might opt for the tiropita toast— manouri cheese, granny smith apples, and Ovelia’s signature brunch fruit compote (you might want to order a jar of this stuff). But perhaps the crowning glory of the whole menu is the Kreatopita, over which the Giannakas family toiled the longest before settling on the winning recipe. Juicy pulled leg of lamb and kasseri cheese are encrusted in angel hair shreds of phyllo and served with a ramekin of herbed yogurt. Factor in a brunch cocktail, or even a mocktail. The Mastic Lemonade is like a virgin mojito garnished with a dollop of fresh fondant, like the brothers used to enjoy as kids. There’s a little bit of the family found throughout the entire menu. And we think this newest chapter is one of the tastiest yet. Ovelia Psistaria & Bar 34-01 30th Avenue, Astoria 718-721-7217 www.ovelia-nyc.com
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