It’s a quiet, modest dining room tucked into a sleepy row of apartments and bodegas on 36th Avenue—not typically what one might associate with Brazil—but this is a different taste than what you might have come to expect. The Moqueca de Camarao is nuanced with palm oil and coconut milk to balance the tangy peppers. Those same ingredients blend with a cream of dried shrimp and fish, which is spooned in dollops atop fritters of mashed black-eyed peas. A trio of pastel de carnes arrives with a ramekin of peppers and onions that liven the meat-filled pastries. Pasta pillows of chicken and fresh mozzarella arrive in a blanket of Creole cream sauce. Herbert Gomez, the chef and owner, is as soft-spoken as his deliciously-nuanced Brazilian cuisine. Throughout the course of dinner service, he peaks his head frequently into the dining room, which is full of friends, family, and guests. Red and white carnations decorate the tables with an old-fashioned charm. Service is attentive—even exceptional, at times. For a quiet respite from the hustle and bustle of the city, it is well worth a visit. If you can snag a seat, Saturdays are particularly great. It’s the one day you can order the Brazilian National Dish—Feijoada Completa—a black bean stew made with dried meat, pork, ribs, sausage, and bacon, all served with rice, farofa (yucca flour), and sautéed collard greens. Your caipirinha can be blended with lime or passion fruit, and sangria is available by the pitcher. Be sure to ask to see a dessert menu, where the passion fruit mousse and coconut flan frequently sell out. MALAGUETA Brazilian & Continental Cuisine 25-35 36th Avenue, Astoria, NY 11106 www.malaguetany.com 52 | BOROMAG.COM | JANUARY 2015 Off the Be aten Path FOOD & DRINK
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